Some Supplements to Natural Rock Wall Climbing Open Line (1)
2019-02-05 14:04:54
The following free and easy-to-read “Version 0.1†of the Natural Rock Climbing Sport Course was very good, and systematically elaborated some of the common sense and key points in climbing open lines. Now, the team of rock climbing enthusiasts is gradually expanding. Some experienced rock climbers are also trying to develop new rock climbing routes on their own. This is very important for the promotion and popularization of rock climbing, and it also shows that our domestic climbing movement is gradually Mature.
The article on the wind is very correct. The development of climbing lines is a very serious matter. It is not for the enjoyment and entertainment of the opener, but also for the safety and fun of the climber. For the issues discussed in the article, the same point need not be repeated. I just added a little bit of personal opinion.
The first point is the question of the quality that the opener should possess.
Because domestic rock climbing enthusiasts do not have a long time to develop rock climbing routes, there are two sources of open knowledge: first, reference books and online knowledge about opening lines; second, learning and communicating with other line-openers. Line development is a highly operational task. It is a good way to learn and communicate with others. He must also look at others to open the line, help others to open the line, and he independently practice to open the line step by step.
The second point: the length of the line
Generally, the length of climbing rope we use is 50 meters. The rope is folded in half. The length of the double rope is 25 meters. So the length of a competitive climbing line is usually within 25 meters, but considering the special conditions of the line (such as the line There is a platform at a depth of 26 meters. It is also possible to open the line to a height of 26 meters. This is because we take into account the 7% ductility of the rope. If you encounter this situation, you must tie a knot at the end of the rope. Just in case, everyone must develop this good habit. The location of the tabs and anchors need to be carefully considered because improper placement of the tabs will prevent climbers from climbing or even endangering their safety. It's wrong to punch a piece of tape or pass it too far according to the ability of the opener. Because playing too dense is a waste, it requires a lot of hanging pieces, not to mention a lot of fast hanging, too much quick hanging will hinder climbing, the more ropes are fast hanging, the greater the friction, the rock climber will feel the reins Very heavy. In addition, too many hanging pieces will affect the beauty of the rock wall. If the hanging piece is too sparse, once the climber falls, there will be a great distance to fall, which is easy to damage the pioneer climbers and protectors.
The third point: the location of the coupon
How large is the distance between the hanging pieces?
To analyze the specific situation, the first hanging piece is usually higher, about 3 meters above the ground, because if it is too low, even if the first lock is hung, the second lock is not yet hung. When it falls off, there is a possibility that it will fall to the ground and there will be no protection effect. The distance between the second hanging piece and the first hanging piece is smaller than that of other hanging pieces, usually not more than 2 meters. The distance between other hanging pieces is between 2-4 meters. The hard part is a bit dense, and the simple one is a little sparse. It is due to the dense distribution according to the difficulty. Each hanging piece must take into account its previous and next hanging piece positions, and think about where to drop if it hangs on the upper hanging piece position. Is there any protruding or sharp rock in there? Trees and other things that endanger the safety of rock climbers. In addition, on the high elevation angle course, the hanging pieces will be played more densely, such as one meter and one hanging piece; on some particularly simple lines, such as 5.4, 5.5, etc., a hanging piece of about 10 meters is also possible.
What's the right place for a hanging piece?
A. Try to place the hanging piece in a straight line. Too much twisted lines will increase the friction between the rope and the fast hanging and hinder climbing.
B. There should be a relatively large hand point or suitable foot point near the hanging piece, so that the rock climber can have a comfortable padlock and not be locked in a dangerous position.
C. Select a safe place to hang the piece. Rock the rock with a rock hammer to determine if it is not loose rock or whether there is any hollow inside. Observe the presence of cracks and cracks around the rock, and make sure that the entire rock will not be pulled off at the maximum pull (25KN) of the coupon. Before playing the hanging piece, clean the surface of the rock with a rock hammer, knock down the attachment, try to level the position of the hanging piece, and increase the contact area between the hanging piece and the rock surface without gaps. In addition, the electric drill should be at 90 degrees to the rock when drilling. Anchor position?
In many hang-ups on a route, the importance of the anchor hangs I do not say we all know. Anchors can be used as top rope protection points, drop points, and multi-pitch climbing belay stations. So it must be a completely assured coupon. In this case, we need to make two or more coupons to ensure its security. If there is a top chain as the anchor point, but the price of the top chain is more expensive, we can also use two separate hanging pieces together with the steel lock as the anchor point. The choice of anchor position should be noted that it is better to avoid protruding rocks from the anchor point down to the ground to prevent grinding the rope.
If the anchor point has a small platform, the anchor point can be set on the small platform, which can facilitate multi-stage climbing protection and instrument operation. Also suitable for rock climbers rest calmly when they reach the anchor and enjoy the infinite scenery :-)
The fourth point: the cleanup of the line
In the newly opened natural rock wall, there will be more factors such as loose rock, floating soil, and plants that affect safety. The line-opener did not open the line to say good-bye, and it takes a lot of effort to clear the line. First, knock out the broken, loose stones with rock hammers; some extremely sharp rocks will seriously wear the ropes, which is a major safety hazard, blunt their tips. Floating soil can be removed with a small shovel. Weeds can be unplugged. However, the stubborn tree growing on the rock wall, please put it a horse. It is not their fault to choose to grow on the rock. We cannot selfishly think that it will hinder our rock climbing and kill them. The pine stones on the line sometimes require repeated cleansing. Please be careful and be patient.
The fifth point: the efficiency of open tools and open wires
There is a lot of content in this part. I will write it in detail tomorrow. I should go to bed, huh, huh.
If anything is wrong, please correct me!
I hope you can open more lines and let more people fall in love with rock climbing -)
Li Shu
The article on the wind is very correct. The development of climbing lines is a very serious matter. It is not for the enjoyment and entertainment of the opener, but also for the safety and fun of the climber. For the issues discussed in the article, the same point need not be repeated. I just added a little bit of personal opinion.
The first point is the question of the quality that the opener should possess.
Because domestic rock climbing enthusiasts do not have a long time to develop rock climbing routes, there are two sources of open knowledge: first, reference books and online knowledge about opening lines; second, learning and communicating with other line-openers. Line development is a highly operational task. It is a good way to learn and communicate with others. He must also look at others to open the line, help others to open the line, and he independently practice to open the line step by step.
The second point: the length of the line
Generally, the length of climbing rope we use is 50 meters. The rope is folded in half. The length of the double rope is 25 meters. So the length of a competitive climbing line is usually within 25 meters, but considering the special conditions of the line (such as the line There is a platform at a depth of 26 meters. It is also possible to open the line to a height of 26 meters. This is because we take into account the 7% ductility of the rope. If you encounter this situation, you must tie a knot at the end of the rope. Just in case, everyone must develop this good habit. The location of the tabs and anchors need to be carefully considered because improper placement of the tabs will prevent climbers from climbing or even endangering their safety. It's wrong to punch a piece of tape or pass it too far according to the ability of the opener. Because playing too dense is a waste, it requires a lot of hanging pieces, not to mention a lot of fast hanging, too much quick hanging will hinder climbing, the more ropes are fast hanging, the greater the friction, the rock climber will feel the reins Very heavy. In addition, too many hanging pieces will affect the beauty of the rock wall. If the hanging piece is too sparse, once the climber falls, there will be a great distance to fall, which is easy to damage the pioneer climbers and protectors.
The third point: the location of the coupon
How large is the distance between the hanging pieces?
To analyze the specific situation, the first hanging piece is usually higher, about 3 meters above the ground, because if it is too low, even if the first lock is hung, the second lock is not yet hung. When it falls off, there is a possibility that it will fall to the ground and there will be no protection effect. The distance between the second hanging piece and the first hanging piece is smaller than that of other hanging pieces, usually not more than 2 meters. The distance between other hanging pieces is between 2-4 meters. The hard part is a bit dense, and the simple one is a little sparse. It is due to the dense distribution according to the difficulty. Each hanging piece must take into account its previous and next hanging piece positions, and think about where to drop if it hangs on the upper hanging piece position. Is there any protruding or sharp rock in there? Trees and other things that endanger the safety of rock climbers. In addition, on the high elevation angle course, the hanging pieces will be played more densely, such as one meter and one hanging piece; on some particularly simple lines, such as 5.4, 5.5, etc., a hanging piece of about 10 meters is also possible.
What's the right place for a hanging piece?
A. Try to place the hanging piece in a straight line. Too much twisted lines will increase the friction between the rope and the fast hanging and hinder climbing.
B. There should be a relatively large hand point or suitable foot point near the hanging piece, so that the rock climber can have a comfortable padlock and not be locked in a dangerous position.
C. Select a safe place to hang the piece. Rock the rock with a rock hammer to determine if it is not loose rock or whether there is any hollow inside. Observe the presence of cracks and cracks around the rock, and make sure that the entire rock will not be pulled off at the maximum pull (25KN) of the coupon. Before playing the hanging piece, clean the surface of the rock with a rock hammer, knock down the attachment, try to level the position of the hanging piece, and increase the contact area between the hanging piece and the rock surface without gaps. In addition, the electric drill should be at 90 degrees to the rock when drilling. Anchor position?
In many hang-ups on a route, the importance of the anchor hangs I do not say we all know. Anchors can be used as top rope protection points, drop points, and multi-pitch climbing belay stations. So it must be a completely assured coupon. In this case, we need to make two or more coupons to ensure its security. If there is a top chain as the anchor point, but the price of the top chain is more expensive, we can also use two separate hanging pieces together with the steel lock as the anchor point. The choice of anchor position should be noted that it is better to avoid protruding rocks from the anchor point down to the ground to prevent grinding the rope.
If the anchor point has a small platform, the anchor point can be set on the small platform, which can facilitate multi-stage climbing protection and instrument operation. Also suitable for rock climbers rest calmly when they reach the anchor and enjoy the infinite scenery :-)
The fourth point: the cleanup of the line
In the newly opened natural rock wall, there will be more factors such as loose rock, floating soil, and plants that affect safety. The line-opener did not open the line to say good-bye, and it takes a lot of effort to clear the line. First, knock out the broken, loose stones with rock hammers; some extremely sharp rocks will seriously wear the ropes, which is a major safety hazard, blunt their tips. Floating soil can be removed with a small shovel. Weeds can be unplugged. However, the stubborn tree growing on the rock wall, please put it a horse. It is not their fault to choose to grow on the rock. We cannot selfishly think that it will hinder our rock climbing and kill them. The pine stones on the line sometimes require repeated cleansing. Please be careful and be patient.
The fifth point: the efficiency of open tools and open wires
There is a lot of content in this part. I will write it in detail tomorrow. I should go to bed, huh, huh.
If anything is wrong, please correct me!
I hope you can open more lines and let more people fall in love with rock climbing -)
Li Shu
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